Field Journal: Congo Safari, Africa’s Eden
Posted by Giovanna Fasanelli
in Africa and Expeditions
In many minds “the Congo” evokes a nebulous sense of the mysterious… the forbidden… the menacingly dangerous. Surely only intrepid journalists seeking cover stories about tyrannical warlords, or mad-hatter scientists bent on discovering new cancer-fighting compounds, dare venture into such unknown, dark recesses!? Announcing on Facebook that Jonathan and I were heading off to scout our Congo & Rwanda Gorilla Safari catalyzed a cascade of responses urging us to be ultra-careful and wishing us a safe return. It was clear that there was some clarification needed around “the Congo” and, consequently, what level of danger was involved. To be precise, there are two Congos: the Republic of the Congo, of which Brazzaville is the capital; and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), formerly known as Zaire, of which Kinshasa is the capital. The reputation of the (completely un) DRC no doubt has a lot to do with the public’s general sense of alarm and confusion. And understandably so, for, as one sips upon a local brew of Ngok (“Crocodile”) beer from Brazzaville’s upmarket riverside restaurant of Mami Watta, Kinshasa can be viewed in remarkable detail. In fact, these two capital cities are the closest of any in the world, separated only by a voluminous 3-mile stretch of the mighty Congo River. But, unlike its troubled neighbor, Brazzaville is a relatively peaceful, bustling city where the only likely complaint is getting stuck in traffic jams. Brazzaville serves as the launch pad for explorations into the northern rainforests of Odzala-Kokoua National Park, home to the highest known densities of Western Lowland Gorillas. Now there’s a reason to venture from the nest!
Gone are the days of camping in moldy tents and eating out of tin cans. Now there are two gorgeous camps, Ngaga and Lango, from where you can soak up the remote beauty of the forest surrounds. What a sense of place: untrammeled and primordial, cocooned from the modern world. Three nights are spent at each camp, which allows time to showcase their individual gems. Our first camp, Ngaga, stole my heart, not only for its magnificent location in the heart of primary Congolese rainforest and the fantastic gorilla encounters we enjoyed, but also for its bugs! I know this seems absurd but the sheer stupendous variety of spiders and insects had me running around camp, squealing with delight, as I made one new discovery after another. On the wooden handrail around the fire pit I identified seven species of jumping spiders alone! In the absence of a “Field Guide to Congolese Jumping Spiders”, I took it upon myself to name them all: Harriet, Juanita, Penny, Margaret, Beatrix, Marilyn and Charlotte. I won’t say these diminutive denizens of the undergrowth trumped the gorillas, but their abundance, individual characters and bizarre forms were an unexpected treasure, especially for someone who is so passionate about macrophotography. The gorilla experiences were simply fantastic, guided by ex-hunters-turned-trackers whose seemingly supernatural tracking abilities led us straight to the groups each time. On both days, we viewed gorilla families balancing in the trees, rapaciously plucking fruits, the youngsters showing off with comical theatrics involving wigs made of fluffy lichen!
The reluctance of leaving Ngaga Camp was soon forgotten as Lango Camp’s elixir made itself felt. Perched at the edge of a swampy forest clearing, known in these parts as a bai, the camp looks out at Africa’s hidden Eden. Harnessed Bushbuck, Forest Elephants, Bongos and herds of ruddy-furred Forest Buffalos crisscross the shallow river to feed on the juiciest of grasses, whilst a variety of monkeys chatter noisily in the tallest trees. The synchronized beating of thousands of swooping wings makes a terrific noise, as great swarms of Red-eyed Doves, African Green Pigeons and Grey Parrots gather together to ingest salubrious minerals present in the exposed soil of the swamp. What a glorious show!
The activities at Lango Camp are superb: game drives, dry forest walks, wading through quiet, clear streams, swimming and scenic boat cruises. Both the canoe and speedboat excursions were outstanding: gorgeous scenes of shady, overhanging trees and palm-fringed skylines greeted us around every bend, whilst the occasional surprise stampede of startled buffalo across the river had us all smiling in wonderment!
My only complaint of the whole week was the noisy nocturnal feeding habits of the resident elephant bull, which kept me awake with every snapping branch and rumble of the trunk! I much preferred to see him blowing bubbles out in the middle of the bai under the light of the full moon!
This “Congo” is a place on the map every intrepid world traveler simply must know. And with your support, we can ensure the long-term protection of this wild space and all its beautiful creatures… whilst having a jolly fun time! Join us.
Visit our expedition details page to learn more about our Congo & Rwanda Gorilla Safaris. Have a question about this expedition tour? Send us a message using our contact page.
